At the Berlin fashion fair in January 2016 I visited the stand of Elle Emme Couture, and I asked a few questions to better know the brand.
I speak with Luz Molina, creative director and fashion designer at the company that bears his name.
@ What does the name Elle Emme couture means?
LM The name comes from my initials, L for Luz and M for Molina, while Couture underlines the craftsmanship that is the common denominator of the collection. Our ambition is, over time, to do high fashion, so I reserve my name Luz Molina for when I’ll achieve that goal.
@ What is your main market?
LM We made already 3/4 fairs, all overseas, so we focused all our production to foreign countries. We have been successful especially in northern Europe, Canada and the United States. They’re markets that want different things, with details, in line with what we do: we use in fact all special pieces, recycled fabrics, sweaters … Although the market to which we refer is classic, we’ve been able to put all these different things together, and at the end they’ve been were accepted and loved. At the beginning it was not so simple, people were a bit ‘blocked by clothing so special but eventually they realized that this garments have an extra gear, they like the pieces and they work well, so customers have started to make orders and this year was quite a good one.
@ What is your target consumer? How old is she, what’s her style?
LM Rather than refer to a master consumer with an age or a particular job, we think of a woman who has her own style, which does not follow fashion hysterically, a very active person, with a great desire to do, who wants to break away from mass and prove to be different, not homologated to others and to the current fashion. Our woman reads and travels a lot, knows the world, maybe she has a certain level of culture, for sure she wants to break away from the crowd.
@ Can you speak about the materials you use? Earlier you spoke of recycled materials, do you pay a lot of attention to them, ahow do you make your choice?
LM In addition to the choice of materials, where we combine fabrics purchased classically at our suppliers to others found in stock to which we give new life, what distinguishes us is how we assemble the raw materials.
@ What is the size range of your collection and what is the best-selling size?
LM Our garments ranging goes approximately from 12UK to 22UK, but we we have renamed them: first, second, third, fourth, fifth; the garments are very stretchable, very easy to wear and if possible we avoid inserting zippers or buttons to put them on. We really like the idea of being able to put them as a simple T-shirt, but then the T-shirt is made of lace, silk and perhaps enriched with sequins. So you have the convenience of a T-shirt but it is an evening dress, this is a bit our concept, our way of working.
@ And as price range, what is your range?
LM We have a great value for money, we can have a dress that costs € 79 to the public, and a coat that can cost about 190€.
@ Is this Sexy is Curvy fair giving you satisfactions?
LM This is our favorite fair! In this fair we found some very interesting distributors. This is The trade show focused on the curvy world, so who comes here is a distributor or owner of a major store, and is focused to look for interesting products.
@ Curvy Is sexy the gives opportunity to participate to the collective fashion show, are you represented?
LM No, we don’t participate to the catwalk, because our garments have to be worn in a particular way, with the right style. And then, they would disfigure everything else 😉 (she smiles …)!
@ Your company is also a producer?
LM Yes, as you see, our company is made up of very young people, they are young designers who are moving along in the fashion world, and there is a strong partnership between all of us, in order to grow and get them to create their own line. I call it our “incubator laboratory”.
@ Where is the company based? Do you also produce other lines?
LM The company is located in Sala Bolognese, near Bologna. We make lines for other companies, we also sell a lot our design dping consulting for other companies. Emme Elle Couture is our line, and we also do a smaller one dedicated to Eastern Market, focused on Hong Kong and Korea. The style is aligned to our taste, but the proportions and fit are totally different: wider and shorter because the physicality of the Orientals is very different from ours.
@ So this kind of style intrinsic in the company?
LM Yes, our intention is to create garments that last over time, it is not hysterical fashion.
@ I understand, it’s a personal style that does not change suddenly, but develops over time remaining faithful to the origins, to himself.
LM Yes, you buy one of our coat, you’ll wear it in twenty years from now and your friend will tell you: “How strange, that’s particular … it’s beautiful!”, That is us: always forward! Luz shows me the catalog of the summer collection, explaining the particularities of work: pieces of different fabrics, applications, embroidery, dye, paintings and hand prints: everything is done by them, by very few people, indeed very young people, with a strong passion and lot of desire to do.
So I think that to have a so handcrafted collection the numbers of garments produced is limited, however Luz tells me that it’s not so small, that each model is produced in 60/100 pieces (in any case, for the numbers I’m used in big companies, it is still a small production). The basic collection is of 50/80 styles, but it is then constantly enriched by numerous flash, ie updates during the season. This is therefore a collection in constant renewal, which requires a lot of work. The company is composed of only four people who take care of everything: from the idea, to the realization of the first prototype, its development and production. Not to miss the sales stage, shooting the collection and communication choices. They work day and night, devoting 100% to this, that in addition to being a work, it is primarily a passion. I have to say that meeting Luz and his collaborators was really a very nice moment. I was struck by the passion they put into what they do, in addition to the special features and the personalization of individual pieces. Recently fashion has become more and more a business, but by Elle Emme Couture it remains first and foremost a love.